On the 15th of October, I, along with 14 others including Zoe Holyoak from Concern and Stefan Meigh from Action Challenge  departed Dublin airport bound for Ethiopia for my second Concern Trekking Challenge, and a “challenge” it was.

The buzz from the group was high when after 16 hours of travel we arrived In Addis Ababa. With stunning views from the Aircraft we were surprised by the greenery of the country and once we cleared customs we were met by out local guide Misgana, who brought us to our hotel to freshen up. Nothing prepared me for the poverty that I witnessed on the way. A sobering introduction to the country.

Later that day, after a quick nap, we were brought to the local Concern office and introduced to Ester one of the two co-directors for the country. She informed us that the money we raised as a group, over €40,000, was going directly to the Ethiopian Famine Appeal as 4.3 million people were currently at risk due to the drought in Southern Ethiopia. She also discussed the other projects that Concern supported, dealing with H.I.V. Aids, working within Communities, Education, Irrigation and supporting small businesses. I felt reassured by her knowledge, that our money was been put to good use in the country. Even though the poverty was so apparent around the location of the Concern Office in Addis Ababa, Ester explained to us that while they make a contribution to the locals due to the location of the office, Concerns work is with the poorest of the poor, and these locals did not fall into this category. It made me wonder how bad things really were in Ethiopia, had we not seen poor? Apparently not!

That evening we dined in a traditional Ethiopian restaurant and were entertained by local musicians and very enthusiastic dancers, again Ester words echoed in my head, poorest of the poor. It was a surreal experience, eating well knowing that not far away in this same country were starving people.

The following morning after a delicate 4am start we took an internal flight to Gondor, and commenced our 3.5 hour “bone shaker” bus journey into the Simien National Park, stopping off in Debark where we met out two guides Pm and Asmara , our horsemen, camp staff and our two gunmen. Afraid to ask at the time, but we later found out the gunmen were needed to protect us from animals and bandits that can be on the roads after dark looking for medication and money. At 2pm and at 3190metres in 20 degrees of heat, we commenced our first steps of our trek into Sankaber Camp arriving at 6.20pm. A light introduction to what lay ahead of us over the next few days. Along the route  we came across numerous groups of Gelada Baboons, indigenous to the region. Noisy and aggressive creatures, but they kept well enough away from us humans. Once we arrived at camp, we, my friend Julie Tarrant from Templemore, and I claimed a tent and being our second trek with concern we were delighted with the added comfort of a pillow!  After a welcome dinner we really got to know each other by entertaining ourselves with charades until the tiredness took over and we retired to our tents, to spend the first of six nights under canvas. Our Guides warned us to make sure our tents were well closed as wild dogs were known to rob clothes and boots from tents.  Our tent was well and truly closed. 

The next morning, our first to wake under canvas, the screeching of the thick billed Ravens had us all wondering what the noise was, but we all emerged from our tents, agreeing that sleeping on the ground wasn’t as bad as had been anticipated. After a breakfast of eggs, bread and coffee, the camp was a bustle of activity, discussing last nights charades and the toilet situation – ie the hole in the ground. After packing our rucksacks for the mules to take to the next camp, we started packing our day packs with sun lotion, insect repellent, packed lunch, 2 litres of water - enough water until our lunch stop, torch, medical kit, water proof jacket and trousers, sunglasses and a sun hat! At 7.30am we commenced our second day heading towards Geech Camp.  Hearts melted as we came across a group of children, dirty, barefooted and draped in colourful blankets ready for the drop in temperature that would come later, once the sun went down. On we continued, getting to see a spectacular waterfall plummeting into Geech Abyss. After a lunch stop we came to meet a lady “Aiwa” and her six year old sickly blind son “Said”.  Our doctor Aaroon examined Said and it was decided with the agreement of his mother that we would take him and his mother back to Gondor with us on our return and get him seen by an eye specialist. We left them hopeful, but we were all visibly upset by the situation. On our way to Geech the grinding poverty and hardship of rural Ethiopia became very apparent. We arrived somewhat subdued, but happy that our second days trek was over. After our baby wipe shower, we had a treat after dinner, due to Seamas’s (fellow trekker) birthday.  The chefs produced a birthday cake unknown how they managed considering the primitive cooking conditions in a tent!

The following morning, after the bag packing ritual, was an uphill climb to reach “Imetegogo” an incredible vantage point of the entire area. From there we made a gentle decent to the valley midway and again an upwards climb. Again along the route we came across many children. Many working in the fields, looking after animals and crops. The innocent in their little faces, was a stark contrast to the reality of their lives with little or no education, a poor diet and a mud hut for a home, but this is the unfortunate reality of what is happening in Ethiopia today. The banter within the group was light hearted as we traversed downwards along a steep path until eventually we reached a road, and then a steep incline towards Cheek camp. This had to have been the coldest night of our trip.

Waking the following morning, there was frost on our tents. It was cold, and the basin of water provided to us was also cold. I was glad of the thermals I had worn the night before. During another great breakfast our guides got really excited as they had sighted some Ibex’s over the cliff edge. With only about 600 left in the world we were delighted to see them. We then began our trek up the valley for about 2.5 hours and begin a decent into Chiro Liba village where we gave a presentation to the local school  of books and schools supplies that we had brought with us from Ireland. One could not but be affected by the warmth of the welcome by the children, and the apparent lack of facilities in which the people of the village live. Many of us left the village upset, the harness of life all too obvious. We continued down the valley surrounded by Aloe Vera plants in abundance and we stopped at a river for a rest before we started another 2 hour uphill struggle to our camp. Today was a hard day, emotionally and physically. But harder was still to come. As I took off my trekking boots and looked at my blistered feet, I began to wonder what the hell I was doing. My feet ached, my back ached from sleeping on the ground, I hadn’t had a shower in 5 days, my skin was dirty, my clothes were dirty and we still had to face Ras Dashen the aim of our trip. But with a 4am wake up call looming, we retreated to tents early to try and catch some much needed rest. As we lay in the tent, discussing what we had seen that day, we heard hyenas growl and roam outside our tent. I was beginning to think those gun men were a good idea now.

The next day with a cold, dark 4.30am departure, we were grateful that we could not see what lay ahead of us, but after 2 hours of trekking we were gifted with a dawning of a new day, frost was underfoot and puddles of water were frozen over. At 11.30am and 7 hours later we all reached the highest point in Ethiopia, “Mount Ras Dashen” at 4533 metres. Cheers and hugs all around and suddenly all the pains and aches were gone. All the sweat and pain had been worth it, however what goes up must come down and a 5 hour down hill trek was staring us in the face!! Exhausted we arrived back to camp at 5pm. As the coffee bean originated in Ethiopia, a coffee ceremony and dinner awaited us and we had a few welcome beers.

Another early 5.30am call and we were weary as we started our downhill trek followed by a 1500m climb. Rallied along by singing and jokes 11 hours later we arrived at Chenek camp to the finish line of our trek.  Hugs and kisses and a few tears followed, as our amazing trek came to an end. While my body was well and truly wrecked at this stage my mind was a race, what we had just accomplished was amazing, there were times when I thought I just wasn’t going to make it, there were times when I didn’t know if I wanted to make it and then there were the times when the strength and energy from the group wouldn’t allow me but to make it. That night we were treated to a superb dinner under canvas and traditional dancing by campfire from our team.  At this stage we gathered what medication and first aid supplies that we didn’t need and we gave it to our doctor to distribute. What clothes we felt we could do without, were graciously accepted by our team, along with children’s clothes that we had brought with us. It really made me think of what I had at home and how little these humble people had.

Another freezing night, but with the warmth of celebration beers in Chenek camp we slept well and were awoken again to be told that there was a pair of Ibex’s nearby. We silently watched as they sauntered up the hill, leaving us in no doubt which of us were the intruders.  A fitting farewell to the National Park.  We loaded up on the bus for our return to Gondor, stopping en route to collect Said and his mother. Said arrived dressed only in an adult’s vest and both him and his mother appeared anxious, yet like us hopeful. His mother, so desperate to help her son, joined us, 14 strangers to be brought to a town 5 hours away for treatment. They had nothing, no bag, no money, no food, no water.  After a 5 hour bus journey we arrived back in Gondar and to our hotel. A warm shower awaited us and a celebration dinner in the hotel dining room. Our guide Asmara bought Said and his mother to a private medical clinic awaiting an appointment with an eye specialist the following morning. After dinner we were entertained by a couple with traditional dance.

The following morning, our last in Ethiopia, saw some “sore heads” from the night before, but most of all we waited for the news on Said. I wondered would we return home with the wonderful story of the child we had saved from blindness. Unfortunately not so, the news was not good concerning Said. His sight was not lost due to cataracts as was thought, but lack of Vitamin A. It was too late to do anything for him. We were devastated for him. The doctor had said that this child was just the tip of the iceberg. Deflated, I couldn’t believe it. This was not the way the story was to end. I was angry and really began to wonder was it worth it. I could have been lying on a beach somewhere. Did I really need the mental, physical and emotional heartache that I had just put myself through? I cried. Julie cried. We all cried all because of a deficiency of Vitamin A. We bought Said and his mother clothes, and collected money for his family. What more could we do. But thinking back to our first day in Addis, when we met Ester, I knew it had been worth it. Concern does fantastic work with the poorest of poor people, and they desperately need money to keep their good work going.

Sadly we began our journey home and we said goodbye to a fantastic group of people that I was lucky to have the most fantastic experience with. So to Julie, Zoe, Brian, Ken, Aidan, Eileen, Caoimhe, Catriona, Donal, Stefan, Ritchie, Andy, Keith & Seamus, form a bottom of my heart thank you!

I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who, sponsored me or sponsored spot prizes, helped me with the fundraising events or hosted and promoted them. I would like to especially thank my family and friends for their constant encouragement, and a big thank you to my friend and trekking buddy Julie, who has seen me through the highs and lows of trekking.

I would like to thank “Concern” and “Action Challenge for organising such a trip and giving me the opportunity to do something to help those that are not in a position to help themselves. After what I have seen in Ethiopia I am determined to work with Concern for as long as I can. I have also decided to take on the challenge of another trek next year, and head to Tanzania with Concern. If anyone is thinking of doing something like this, think no more, sign up, do it now.

So to one and all Thank you, Thank you, Thank you
Ciara Kennedy